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My favorite summer drink.... 🤙

What did you use for Timing Gears? .. Thanks

So, 12 volt, so are you going to power it with solar? If so, will it be direct panel to pump, or a battery and then some kind of timer so it doesn't just run the battery dead?

Get ready to weed your butt off even with the filter pulling water from the river

You guts passed my family's grave yard. Gittings mound. My family's. Vault. My dad was Ronald Clyde Gittings.

I have an 2001 model. It has a oil change reminder every 100 hours. When You start the engine and rpm goes over 2000 you hear a loud beep and the oil pressure light comes on. Very annoying. In Suzuki`s DF70 counterpart motor You can reset reminder easily. Turn on the power and pull the emergency switch three times in a row, that`s it. Evinrude has a different remote control box with a different emergency switch. Key and the switch together. Do you or any reader know how to reset reminder?

This motor is exactly same than Suzuki DF70. It may be easier to find out information if You know that.

Hey I got the same motor I'm having a issue with it idles fantastic but don't let me go fast I change thermostat poppet and impeller still same issue

Vegetable oil is poison to our bodies

Are you supposed to rinse the mushrooms first? I found a LOT of turkey tail on a tree that fell down but some of them have like a green algae? on them. Thanks! Oh, and friendly reminder pleaseeee don’t use silverware in a teflon pan! I’ve heard it can cause cancer when it chips off into your food 🫶🏼

Bobbofest!

Nice

Hey, just stopped by here. I've got the same heater, just the 40k BTU version. I should have pitched this heater years ago, but just like you I like to tinker. Thought I'd leave a couple extra notes/tips I've learned along the way for you & others stopping by: 1) Photocell - yep, def clean that off. You'll know this needs to be done when you turn on the heater, it starts to fire up, but shuts down within 3-5 seconds. The photocell can not see the flame so it trips. 2) Cleaning the ignitor - Wow, out of all the videos I watched, first I've seen anyone clean it. CAUTION: The rod on this can get very brittle, especially older ones, so taking them out, can cause a easy break and there is no fix, you will buy a new one. So cleaning this, I would say, is pushing your luck. The rod is going to black - just a result of it working the way it should. Plug the heater in for about 4 sec. then unplug it. If that rod glows a nice bright orange (and I do mean a pretty bright orange - not a dull glow) - then I would just move on to the next diagnosis step and leave the ignitor alone. 3) Fuel nozzle - If you already this far into the unit, here's what I would recommend. Pull both the airline and fuel line off the nozzle. Turn the nozzle (probably turn counter clockwise) until the tabs align with the cutouts on the holder and you can pull it out. Using wrenches you can turn the nozzle out from the adapter. You can also breakdown the nozzle further. You can turn the threaded tail of the nozzle from the head of it. There are 3 parts, the nozzle head, the nozzle tail, and at the top of the tail, a small air diffuser - that helps atomize the air and fuel for proper burn. Clean it all up and reverse the steps to put it all together. 4) Adjustment ports on the back - 2 of them. The left on is a solid plug. This is meant to accept a pressure gauge. Either way, this needs to be plugged with with a gauge or the plug itself. The right port is the adjustment. This has a hole that goes all the way through. Behind this adjust plug is a small spring with a metal ball behind the spring. As you turn the adjustment in, this creates a larger force needed to push the ball out and therefore open up the channels to allow air to be pumped up to the nozzle. Turn the adj in, the pressure goes up. Goes down turning out. Start with the adjust either flush, or a little less the flush with the housing it's turned into. Look at the spec plate on the side of the unit. It should tell you the PSI for the unit. I'd guess this one is around ... 3.5 to 4.0. Larger units can be 9, 10 or more. Smaller ones less. Mine is a 40K, and it recommends 3 PSI. Remember this is optimum. You can go A LITTLE HIGHER or LOWER if you want. But you'll have to play with it to see what works otherwise you can get flames shooting out a bit from around the cone, or choke the unit with too much fuel going in, which shuts it down and you'll get a lot of smoke as the left over fuel slow burns off the cooling cone. You'll know when you got it tuned up just right - the cone should be glowing a nice cherry red... OK, hope this helps a little more. These units are not hard to work on... with that said, they can be very FRUSTRATING, because they are very fussy and touchy. Oh.. .one more thing.... CLEAN THE LITTLE FUEL FILTERS TO!!!! I'll let you guys research that for your particular until, because each one seems to be a little different. But those can get gummed up pretty quick, especially with old fuel and algae that can grow and gets sucked into the filter ! Happy heating !!

its super cool! love the ac, sink, outlet a cool space will be perfect for camping in style!

Run one many years

Just turned 62 and had my first one a week ago now I’m hooked I can’t believe as much as I love bloody Mary’s I’ve never tried one of these I’ve got some catching up to do lol thanks

Hello cruel world you woke me from my ancient slumber' what beetle will it be? not Ringo ha ha ha.

You did a good job. I have one about same size but black. Id love to do something like that but it’s just me. What part of country you in? Im in smokies of NC

This is stupid.

Got some good bones there…

Does the thermostat shut off the fan or just the flame?

I am dealing with this problem right now, but I doubt it is the relay, even though the draw goes away if I remove it, but I swap relays , my truck has 3 o 4 and the problem persists with all of them.

Curbs

A sheet of plastic under the concret could have helped in preventing the concret grabbing to the ground

Muckin Forons

It would be nice to see an update

Why wouldn't you build it on a movable platform

Don’t you love a bonehead that has to stick his neck in front of the camera… Like the guy that’s filming this is invisible or something

But concrete cures underwater 😕

Did I miss something? Shouldn't there be rebar poured in place on the end that can be set in the next pour so that they are attached in perpetuity?

I can't believe I watch

Thanks for the vid and the good videography! You were pretty on point & it was easy to tell what you were talking about. I have a parasitic draw in my 99 4x4 4.0 ranger... and trying to chase it down.

Send it. Jw shop time jeep and wood channel

Get a D-11

Well, I saw that coming from a mile away. I knew that thing was never going to float.

Should have greased the old ramp

Never rebuke a scorner. Because, Because, he will hate you and he will take revenge. Good job man, You are in the water with the ramp. Thank you.

Learn to ūse your tools Before you start work!

Gonna need a bigger dozer

Look at that old nasty black water

They underestimated the shear force necessary to break the poured in place slab-soil interface. A % of the cement, small aggregate and cement mixture seeped into the subgrade and set up during the vibrating and curing phase. Lord knows how many tons of 'excess baggage' this little dozer is trying to push assuming it can 'break' the subgrade bond. I wonder if they placed a plastic poly layer below the rebar?

Much larger ramp and very little effort. Plastic and timber seems to work well. I like how they stubbed out the rebar for the remaining pour. Well thought out... ruclips.net/video/DbrDiepcGvM/видео.htmlsi=1lsacSHVaPR630vG

That was interesting, even if I microwaved the watching. I've never built a Boat Ramp before, so I'm not sure that I can offer to much. And I don't see any where that you asking for advise. It's kind of a natural reaction to offer advice where none is being sought. But, I have moved building's and houses. I suppose there's got to be some similarities. Someone mentioned that this is how its been done for a long time. And that's how most of learn whatever it is we do. Watch then Do method of learning. I would suggest possibly adding another method of making it easier to move. Perhaps, using rollers of some type under the slab. Such as they have used for 1000s of years to move big stones and slabs of stone. They use Inflatable rollers bags to move huge boats and Barges. In the case of Ancient times , they used Trees/logs. Ive used pieces of PVC pipes to move medium size buildings/Sheds. We can move them with just human power and some times levers. Just my thoughts, Im certainly not saying anything about how your doing it is wrong. Thanks for sharing. 🤜🤛👍

Make it in 2 sections or more?

I have operated just about every size dozer up to a D9 or equivalent in other brands and if it is in first gear it will either push what you are attempting to move or the tracks will spin

What did I just watch?

Looks a we bit steep ??🤔

"Eating my yard up" you have a bulldozer in your yard and a slab poured 30 feet from the water. Yea, there's gonna be some yard work.

I've watched ramps get put in but it never looked like this😅

That old dozer got some power.